BACK AT THE TOP
Courchevel: The resort where glitz and glamour meet cool conviviality
After hearing a rumour that the fabled resort is recapturing its 1960s fizz, Georgia Boscawen catches a lift to the Courchevel comeback
UN DUO
On a bluebird morning in the middle of March, Courchevel 1850 is a hive of activity. I’m standing on the edge of the perfectly crispy piste of Jardin Alpin (the heart of 1850), where the pine-speckled slopes converge and the bright red jackets of the Courchevel instructors can be seen carving down the green run followed by steady ribbons of eager young skiers. Groups of colourful (many fur-lined) jackets gather beneath the Croisette gondola, as burgundy Gucci-branded lifts fly overhead, backdropped by boutiques including Rolex, Dior and Hermès. I’ve spent time in many of Europe’s ski resorts, and few can compete with the glitz and glamour of Courchevel 1850.
COURCHEVEL TOURISME A Gucci ski gondola
COURCHEVEL TOURISME A Gucci ski gondola
For the last 10 years, the resort’s ultra-highsociety status has grown exponentially. For this part of the resort in 1850 (which is one of six villages under the Courchevel umbrella), the glamorous side accelerated to such a degree that young families trailing behind ski instructors have been replaced by a sea of shiny black Moncler jackets and Perfect Moment suits (admittedly I have one myself and love it).
MICHEL ARTAULT_GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES
MICHEL ARTAULT_GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES
Where once the resort was known for cool and quiet luxury, over the past few years it has developed a reputation as flash – and perhaps even a little brash. This is my first visit in five years, and it is clear that another change is afoot. It’s a nostalgic feeling, not just because of the memories I have here, but also because the original charm of Courchevel appears to be rearing its sleepy head.
For the last 10 years, the resort’s ultra-highsociety status has grown exponentially. For this part of the resort in 1850 (which is one of six villages under the Courchevel umbrella), the glamorous side accelerated to such a degree that young families trailing behind ski instructors have been replaced by a sea of shiny black Moncler jackets and Perfect Moment suits (admittedly I have one myself and love it).
Where once the resort was known for cool and quiet luxury, over the past few years it has developed a reputation as flash – and perhaps even a little brash. This is my first visit in five years, and it is clear that another change is afoot. It’s a nostalgic feeling, not just because of the memories I have here, but also because the original charm of Courchevel appears to be rearing its sleepy head.
A balcony at Six Senses Resort and The Alpine chic living room in the Prestige Residence on the top floor of Ultima Hotel Courchevel
Since opening in the early 1940s, the six villages of Courchevel have gone through several transitions, but the resort grew from humble beginnings. At the turn of the 20th century, the Tarentaise Valley, the area we now know as Courchevel, was occupied by a smattering of settlements amid dense Alpine forest, which was blanketed in snow for most of the year.
A high-society influx occurred in the 1960s with the arrival of Altiport and luxury boutiques, which still stand today
The magnificent scenery and superior terrain surrounding these small hamlets were known to a few intrepid skiers who, during the winter months, would scramble up the mountain. It was a place for aficionados, those who would happily brave a storm or two for a few days of great skiing.
Lifts were non-existent (as they were in virtually all ski areas), and there was just one auberge, Hotel Lac Bleu in Saint-Bon, which wasn’t open in the winter at all until 1925. Most skiers would camp or stay in farm buildings in Pralong and Saint-Bon to ski here, but the growing interest in the Tarentaise Valley was clear.
It was 1942 when the French Commission of Tourism expressed an interest in the location and began devising plans to create a “super resort” from the ground up. But the approach was far from conventional. The planning began within the walls of a Nazi prisoner of war camp in Austria, where the accomplished town planners, Laurent Chappis and Maurice Michaud, were held. Upon their release, the immediate post-war years saw surveys and then solid plans to build Courchevel.
ALDPESTCourchevel’s ski lifts carry around 70,000 people every hour
ALDPESTCourchevel’s ski lifts carry around 70,000 people every hour
A high-society influx occurred in the 1960s with the arrival of Altiport and luxury boutiques, which still stand today. It was the place to be, exuding elegance with rustic family-run restaurants, boutique hotels and superior ski instructors. This popularity continued over the years, and Courchevel saw something of a wealth explosion in the late 1990s – it was this final transition that saw a shift in character.
COURCHEVEL TOURISME
On the one hand, it was positive, since the resort was full, as were the restaurants, which could comfortably shift bottles of 1988 Petrus for casual piste-side lunches. But on the other hand, Courchevel’s original charm was being diluted by a louder, flashier crowd that followed the money. The resort has had a huge inflow of wealthy Russians over the last 10 years too, and was often referred to as “Courchevelski”.
“The lifts here take up 70,000 skiers an hour,” says my instructor, Michele, who has taught here for more than 30 years. “That’s the thing about les trois vallées (the ski area that encompasses Courchevel) – it’s huge, so we can get away from any queues, but it shouldn’t be too bad.” I know what I’m looking for today, however, and it’s a collection of infamously busy slopes in Courchevel where the ratio of steep to wide is perfect.
When Courchevel dials up the glamour, it does it very well
From 1650, the Signal lift is never without long snaking queues as it’s the main chairlift up to the mountain and to 1850 beyond. There’s still a queue here today, but it clears in a couple of minutes. Despite the immaculate conditions, the slopes are clear too, I’m delighted to discover, and even the Rochers red run, with its wide, sweeping piste (which this year has black markers), is clear. “We’ll do it again,” says Michele, sensing my excitement – and we do it twice more.
Today, Courchevel lends itself brilliantly to fast piste skiing and interesting off-piste touring, too – it is home to the Grand Couloir. This year, the resort is making a real push for family skiing with a new Ski Fun programme from ESF (the English-speaking ski schools organisation) and a new slalom run.
STANISLAS GROSS
ULTIMA COURCHEVEL BELVEDERE
STANISLAS GROSS
This is what it used to be – and the resort that I remember – a stylish family resort with great slopes, great restaurants and hotels/ chalets, but more on the latter soon. The prestigious new Ineos Clubhouse (with a Grenadier 4x4 outside) is also showing support for younger skiers – Sir Jim Ratcliffe donated to the Club des Sports de Courchevel, where children can learn to ski.
COURTESY OF SIX SENSES COURCHEVELAn entrance lounge at the Six Senses Residences
COURTESY OF SIX SENSES COURCHEVELAn entrance lounge at the Six Senses Residences
Courchevel has a sensational collection of conventional hotels, including Cheval Blanc, Airelles and Le Portetta. But there are also several options for those who want a hotel/chalet hybrid with a more relaxed feeling. The Six Senses Residences offers a superlative après-ski experience.
GILLES TRILLARD The interior of Alpes Hôtel du Pralong
GILLES TRILLARD The interior of Alpes Hôtel du Pralong
The arrangement caters to groups who want five-star hotel service in a private residence and form one vast suite around an elegantly designed central sitting and dining room. Chefs are on hand, as is a specialist cocktail bar (complete with bartender)
Courchevel has a sensational collection of conventional hotels, including Cheval Blanc, Airelles and Le Portetta. But there are also several options for those who want a hotel/chalet hybrid with a more relaxed feeling. The Six Senses Residences offers a superlative après-ski experience.
The arrangement caters to groups who want five-star hotel service in a private residence and form one vast suite around an elegantly designed central sitting and dining room. Chefs are on hand, as is a specialist cocktail bar (complete with bartender).
When Courchevel dials up the glamour, it does it very well. Ultima Hotel Courchevel is a fine example of this, perched right on the Belvédère piste in 1650. With 13 picture-perfect linked chalets (from one to five bedrooms), it feels akin to a fully serviced private chalet with four levels of immaculate lounge space with a roaring open fire, fur rugs, a library of ski-related books and a television snug on the top floor.
After being met in the ski room by Kinga, our private butler, I retreat to the chalet where a warm wheel of Mont d’Or is waiting for us along with a bottle of Laurent-Perrier Champagne. Chef Theo follows up with perfectly prepared bruschetta, a rich tomato soup and finally slow-cooked beef with lashings of red wine jus. “What time would you like breakfast?” he asks as he gathers his knives before leaving us. “I’ll be back here in the morning to prepare it.”
ULTIMA COURCHEVEL BELVEDEREA Champagne welcome at Ultima Hotel Courchevel
ULTIMA COURCHEVEL BELVEDEREA Champagne welcome at Ultima Hotel Courchevel
It’s superyacht service on the slopes, I think to myself as I sink into the enormous pillowy bed in the master suite. Being back in Courchevel this time feels very special. There is a convivial feeling I haven’t felt for a while here. If it continues along this path, the allure that was so famous in the 1960s and 70s will come flooding back and any keen skier would want to be here to witness it.
ultimacollection.com, sixsenses.com
First published in the December 2024 issue of BOAT International. Get this magazine sent straight to your door, or subscribe and never miss an issue.