Red cliffs, tidal extremes, and no one for miles – the Kimberley is one of the last true wildernesses on Earth. Aboard the 42.8-metre Sanlorenzo yacht Globas, Bryony McCabe joins a daring six-week expedition cruise through this untamed region of Western Australia.
Outdoor enthusiasts with a passion for off-the-beaten-track exploration, the owners of Globas see her more as a springboard for adventure than a luxury yacht. So, when they bought the 43-metre Sanlorenzo in 2022 and started planning a world-cruising itinerary, the Kimberley region in the northernmost part of Western Australia was one of the must-visit destinations where they envisioned their yacht’s capabilities would shine.
“As one of the few truly remote wildernesses on the planet, the Kimberley is an obvious choice for an expedition yacht like Globas,” the owners say. “The region can be difficult to access as most of the coast has no vehicle access and zero population, so one of the best ways to explore is by boat.”
While the Perth-based couple have spent more than 20 years exploring the Kimberley in smaller boats and four-wheel drives, Globas would allow them to extend the duration and range of a trip there. As such, a six-week trip in the Kimberley was scheduled in June and July 2024 during Globas’ circumnavigation, which had also included highlights such as Panama’s Bocas del Toro, French Polynesia, New Zealand and Tasmania.
With no roads, buildings or people – let alone bunkering or provisioning infrastructure – in the Kimberley, Globas required certain capabilities. In preparation for the extreme remote cruising, therefore, a major refit was undertaken at Pendennis Vilanova ahead of her circumnavigation with the primary aim of making Globas as self-sufficient as possible.
This included converting an aft ballast tank to increase fuel capacity from 58,000 to 70,000 litres, installing an extra watermaker and back-up refrigeration system, integrating a glass crusher and vacuum packer to assist with garbage management, as well as amassing spares of every critical component. While food storage and refrigeration capacity on board was also increased during the refit, several seaplane drops were scheduled to bring in additional fresh supplies.
Due to the hostile nature of the cruising environment in the Kimberley, which encompasses uncharted coastline, 12-metre tidal ranges and aggressive saltwater crocodiles, there were plenty of operational considerations for Captain James Johnson ahead of the trip.
Crucial to his preparations were replacing the RIB to avoid punctures from crocodile bites and integrating a WASSP multibeam echo sounder into the tender and mothership so they could produce their own accurate navigational data. “We contacted local tour operator True North and downloaded their tracks onto our plotters, so we had a basic route for the region, but we were scanning with the WASSP every time we moved and charting our own way,” says Johnson.
Another integral piece of the preparation was acquiring an amphibious StabiX tender designed specifically for the Kimberley trip. “There are not many other places in the world where the tidal range and flow is so extreme,” Captain Johnson explains. “We needed a cab on the tender for protection against the choppy wind-over-tide sections of water. And having wheels meant we could land on beaches and not worry about the tide going out.”
Captain Johnson was also aware of the impact that the remoteness and length of the trip might have on the crew, who would have little opportunity for downtime away from their work environment, particularly the sole chef who would be cooking all the meals. To mitigate this, an extra chef was hired for the trip, each crew member was given a day off weekly and the owners’ 21-metre motor yacht Kaiyo was brought along as Globas’ temporary “support yacht” to act as a space for crew R&R.
And so following a trip in Tasmania, Globas crossed the great Australian Bight to Perth to make the final preparations for the Kimberley. The owners and their closest friends joined in Dampier Peninsula in Cygnet Bay and then spent the coming weeks working their way northeast to Darwin. Each day was spent soaking up the untouched and rugged nature. “There’s no shortage of things to do in the Kimberley,” the owners reflect.
“You could easily spend a lifetime exploring the unique coastline and its squillions of bays and rivers and going ashore to find waterfalls and ancient Aboriginal rock art, some of which date back more than 50,000 years. Fishing is plentiful as there is an abundance of fish in the ocean and the rivers due to no commercial fishing and the lack of people.”
Anchoring up many of the Kimberley’s sprawling rivers gave a different feel altogether, such as the enveloping bush and sandstone plains of the Prince Regent River. What remained a constant, however, was the unnerving feeling of being watched. “Every night we would shine a torch on the water and at least six sets of crocodile eyes would be reflected back at us, lurking on the surface,” the owners laugh.
“As well as lemon and hammerhead sharks circling the back of the boat – we certainly didn’t want to get too close to the edge!” This aquatic display was a great source of evening entertainment on board, as well as regular barbecues, quiz nights and movies under the stars.
Because of the crocodile- and shark-infested waters, a key priority each day was to go bushwalking ashore in search of safe swimming spots above the “croc line” as a relief from the heat. “Swimming opportunities are only above waterfalls where saltwater crocodiles can’t access,” the owners advise.
“We used satellite imagery to search for hikes to waterfalls and freshwater pools. The terrain can be rugged and unforgiving, but the reward is discovering secluded, crystal-clear pools sitting above dramatic waterfalls, like your own private spa immersed in nature.”
The owners and guests would also regularly leave the luxury and comfort of Globas to camp overnight, which they hail as one of the most special parts of the trip. Equipped with lightweight tents and other camping equipment, they would be dropped off by tender, follow rivers inland by foot and access some remarkable camping locations.
On one of these excursions, the group walked up the Hunter River and found a waterfall to camp beside. “We set up the 12 tents on different ledges by the side of the river and fell asleep to the sound of cascading water,” the owners reminisce.
A helicopter was hired for seven days to explore the dramatic landscapes by air and facilitate day trips around Charnley River, Isdell River, Sale River and Ruby Falls. While the logistics to accommodate the helicopter pilot on board and bring fuel in by barge were an extra complication, it was worth it for the jaw-dropping aerial views and access to inland swimming, fishing and camping spots.
Of course, all cruising and land-based activities had to revolve around the 12-metre tides, which would dramatically transform the surrounding landscape on an hourly basis. Any navigation through narrow entrances to inlets was done at slack water to avoid the 10 knots of tide that can rush through these areas, creating huge whirlpools and overfalls. River and estuary exploration by tender was best done on a rising tide to avoid getting stranded – a principle that fared well for the most part.
“One day we tied the tender up on the riverbank and a group of us crossed a shallow stream by foot to go fishing,” the owners recall. “We returned only 20 minutes later to discover the stream had turned into a metre-deep, fast-flowing rapid! We had to instruct those still on the other side of the river to manoeuvre the tender to pick us up – we didn’t make the same mistake again!”
Despite the complex preparation and logistics that went into the trip, Globas’ owners are adamant it was worth all the efforts. “The Kimberley is a place that keeps on giving – we found many new and incredible places,” they reflect. For Captain Johnson, much of the success of such an extraordinary trip came down to the owners. “Their philosophy of ‘the more the merrier’ meant the crew were encouraged to join in on as many of the activities and excursions as possible,” he adds.
“This not only meant that the crew also had once-in-a-lifetime experiences but minimised any possibility of cabin fever. It was great to see how much the young crew got involved and enjoyed being in the wilderness. When we arrived back in civilisation in Darwin at the end of the trip, seeing people, traffic and buildings for the first time in six weeks was a bit of a shock!”
Spurred on by the success of the circumnavigation, Globas’ owners have plenty more adventures in store. Having listed Globas for sale and bought the 47-metre Sanlorenzo Arrow for its slightly larger volume and option for a helideck, the owners plan to continue exploring the remotest corners of the globe in the coming years.
First published in the November 2024 issue of BOAT International US Edition. Get this magazine sent straight to your door, or subscribe and never miss an issue.